Cruising the ICW and Chesapeake Bay

The Intra Coastal Waterway (ICW) - over 2000 miles of rivers, canals and sounds

From Norfolk, Virginia,  to Key West, Florida.

Chesapeake Bay - full of history from 1600 on

Fom Baltimore to Norfolk, Virginia

 

With Arnold "Cap'n Parky" Parkinson

Born 1936 and, like Johnny Walker whiskey, still going strong

And Addie - Ships Cat Class 1

Portrait by Patsy Lyon 

 

 

They say a picture tells a thousand words.  Well I hope, with these pictures and only a few words, to give you an idea of what it's like to live and cruise on a boat.  In summary - like a constant holiday on the Norfolk Broads.  Like on a cruise liner where you get to set the course and choose the destinations. Hard to beat! :-)

It's a very healthy lifestyle for a start. Lots of fresh air and exercise.  Fun and adventure of some kind virtually every day. Occasionally I admit moments of pure terror, usually weather related.  You meet lots of nice people amidst pristine natural surroundings - a far different world from the noisy, dirty, police siren cities. And above all - you're never ever bored.  It's boredom I think which kills us off.

I'm an Englishman, born in Liverpool and raised in Manchester, age 75 and unfortunately counting.  At the tender age of 17, I joined the British Merchant Navy principally because it gave me not only a free higher education but also a chance to see the world - which is an education in itself.  The experience made it quite clear to me, if not to my friends, that there were many nicer places to live than rainy old Manchester. 

Places such as Barbados. Rio De Janeiro. Capetown. Perth. Vancouver. New Orleans. Caracas and the Seychelle Islands.

The experience shaped my future, leading to an international career with the Hawker Siddely Group. Further extensive travel, including many tropical islands and boats. At last count I've been to 98 countries. Lived in four - UK, Canada, Australia and America. Now retired but with an online business on my boat thanks to the magic of wireless internet connection.

I'm still motivated by adventure. Still the basic urge to see that next curve in the river which is bound to be more interesting than this one.  :-)

And so my decision to live and cruise on a boat.  One of my three daughters put the word out that Father at last had reached senility and it was time to consider nursing home choices. My son, urged to tell me frankly if indeed I was crazy, simply said "Go for it Dad." 

I credit (and blame) him for everything that has since happened. :-)

I bought "Pisces" on August 14th 2007. I think you can see the delight on my face as I took the wheel for the first time in Georgetown, South Carolina.

Then I had to take her 100 miles south to Charleston my home town at that time.

Now my home town is 'Pisces'.

She's a steel boat, a Roberts Spray 43 ft, built by a gynacologist in Sumter, South Carolina. 

It took him six years to build the hull, plate by plate, weld by weld in his back garden.  He installed a 76hp Yanmar diesel and started work on the rough wood finish below deck - bunks and galley and floor boards.  And then, for some reason known only to him, he simply lost interest, gave up and advertised the boat for sale on Craigs List. I bought her for only $7,500 - the engine alone cost $28,000. Probably the best deal I ever made in my life.

I first took her to Charleston, South Carolina, to the Stono River Marina and made ready to kit her out for cruising. Took me six months of carpentry, interior decor and installation of various electric and electronic systems. The result was more of a floating condominium than a traditional cruising boat. Enough room to cater to my favourite interests - books, music, movies, photography, the world wide web and the creativity involved in my business enterprise The British Club Worldwide (www.britishclubworldwide.com)

 The first thing - design and build me a pilothouse......

She is actually meant to be a sailboat - a design based upon Slocums famous boat "Spray" upon which he was the first man to sail around the world alone. Quite a story.

But I didn't want to sail. I wanted to simply chug chug along at 6 knots. Easier and more comfortable. The pilothouse took three months to build but has well served its main purpose - to keep me cooler and drier in summer and shelter from cold winter winds.

And here she is ready to go.  The deck chair on top is my "Tanqueray gin and tonic, toast the Queen" feature.  :-)

Looking forward

Looking aft.

Down below needed much work too........

Before

And after.

And I was finally ready to go.  A friend gave me the sword. A Pirate King no less!  :-)

Click here for the Pirates of Penzance >>>>>>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLrKJV4ITeE

Sailors are always saying hello or goodbye. In this case - goodbye - 'til next time.

And so at dawn on May 1st, 2008, I finally set off on my personal odyssey through the Wapoo Cut heading north to Charleston.

 Some 250 years ago British soldiers rowed at night through this cut with muffled oars. They took Charleston by surprise and ruled it militarily for two years during the War of Independence. Which finally was won (or lost depending upon your point of view) at Yorktown on the York River some 600 miles north.

Sailors always seem to head out at dawn.  Not sure why.........

Charleston City Marina - "Millionaires Row".  Impressive maybe - but I think I have far more fun than they do.

This brand new mega-yacht, some 120ft long built in Maine, was on her maiden voyage. You're looking at $50 million or so.

She's been featured in many yachting magazines, both exterior and interior reflecting the highest old style elegance and good taste of the owner.

Whoever he is, he's a lucky man.........


A misty morning on the fresh water Waccamaw River, South Carolina. 

I shared this creek with a large 12 ft long alligator I called Sydney. Every mornimg he would roar much similar to a lion - calling for a mate in the June mating season.. And a year or so later in the same creek - I saw a small 3 ft alligator I presume being Sydney's son.........
 

 

Cypress trees and swamp on the Waccamaw at Bucksport, South Carolina.

There was a beautiful sea hawk in those trees - but hard to find on the photo.

 

Sharon the horse carriage lady in Savannah, Georgia.  The most beautiful city downtown and a great riverside boardwalk too.

Buskers on the Savannah Boardwalk - anything for a dollar.

          John with his Asian yellow python                                  Ken - ex schoolmaster - now caricature artist

        Please give a dollar to feed my snake                           When you're out of work you do anything to survive

 

Bill, Francois (a sailor from France) and George Heyward, a retired school teacher, on the right.  In Bluffton, South Carolina.

One of Georges ancestors signed the Declaration of Independence and his statue is here in beautiful Beaufort, South Carolina.

Beaufort is a favourite stop off for many cruisers - offering hot showers, laundry and great restaurants.

 

One memorable evening I helped Georges friend Roger launch his 53 ft catamaran which had taken him 7 years to build in his back garden at Bluffton, SC.  At 9pm high tide, she went down the ramp WHOOOOSSSSSSSHHHHHHH like a roller coaster ride. We were assigned to catch it with the dinghy - quite exciting to say the least! 
 
Francois was very nearly killed when a rope snaked around his ankle and pulled him over the edge - but that's another story.........

Bohicket, South Carolina some 20 miles south of Charleston.  Nice little place, nice friendly people mostly retired enjoying the good life.

The Travelling Troubadors busking - Portsmouth, Virginia.  

I was their "agent" since my guitar was out of action - needed new strings. We collected $22. :-)

 

Pisces at Daufuskie Island just north of Savannah, Georgia.  No cars on this island - golf carts only.

Like going back 200 years. The island was given to slaves freed after the Civil War.

 

Probably my worst ever day. Drifted overnight on to a shoal at Southport, NC. I about damm near died! 

Had to wait an anxious 8 hours until she fortunately floated up again as if nothing had happened.

 

Typical of the many waterside homes in Florida - this one on Hobe Sound. The entire ICW is full of such large homes - usually only occupied a few weeks of the year.  They paid millions of dollars for such a view - I get it for nothing!  :-)

 

The US warship 'Cole' under repair at Norfolk Navy Yard.  This is the ship damaged in Aden by terrorist attack.

The Great Dismal Swamp - 25 miles long, straight and spooky. Full of mystery and history.

The Corps of Engineers has a sense of humour - on the Great Dismal Swamp heading north to Virginia.

A famous friendly personality over the years - Robert the Lock Keeper at Deep Creek Lock, Virginia.

 

One day (October 2011) Robert was able to cram 18 boats into the lock at one time!  It was quite hilarious.

To the left is successful author Christine Kling and her little brown dog who is blind.  To the right is an ill

tempered French Canadian guy who didn't find it amusing at all.  :-)

Heading across St Andrews Sound, Georgia

 

Downtown Portsmouth, VA.  A big US Navy town in the delightful Hampton Roads area.

Beaches - Have We Got Beaches

 

                   Thoroughfare Creek, SC (Fresh water)                                            Veras Restaurant, St Leonards Creek, MD

 

 

                   La Trappes Beach, MD                                                                     Calabash Creek, NC

 

 

                           Balls Creek, VA                                                  The Tides Inn, VA - notice the British flag. The CEO is English

 

 

Wild Horses, Beaufort NC                            Colonial Beach, VA, on the Potomac River. Washington DC is 40 miles north

Oh Oh!  Pulled over by Customs and Immigration, 7am in the morning! "Do you have any weapons?" they ask. There are 4 of them in black uniforms, bullet proof vests, and armed to the teeth. Best to say "Welcome aboard." 

Actually, especially in Florida, such quasi-police boats are a bloody nuisance. They are of Coastguard, Customs and Immigration, Dept of Natural Resources, Wildlife and Fisheries and many other local city police boats.  They are all armed and sometimes offensive. They tell us it's for our protection - but in reality the name of the game is to give out tickets because their agencies need the money.  The fine for some minor infringement seems always to be $150.  Personally I regard them as an infringement of my privacy - like having four armed policemen coming in your home for no apparent reason. And how many 75 year old boat owners do you know are terrorists?

The whole thing is overdone as is much of everything in America since the terrible events of 911.........

 

Sunset near Brunswick, Georgia.  Time for a gin and tonic.......

 

Caps Restaurant in St Augustine, FL - the oldest city in America.

Which Sir Francis Drake bombarded and burned to the ground back in the 1600's. He failed to take the fort however.

So he finally gave up and went back to UK with a mysterious crop called Tobacco.........

 

Sometimes it's very hot - an already hot dawn of yet another 110 Degrees day at Oxford, Chesapeake Bay.

Even hotter below decks.......

 

Sometimes it's very cold - a three day blizzard at Washington, North Carolina,  Toasty warm below however.

 

Sometimes you're in a thunderstorm with 65mph winds.

As NOAA weather says - "Small craft warning - seek safe harbour immediately". Easy for them to say......

And sometimes - thank heavens - it's just right!  :-) 

On the Pasquotank River heading for Norfolk, VA.  Fred in the power boat ahead has been cruising for 17 years.

Fellow Travellers

You meet nice people everywhere you go.  The kindness of strangers driving you to the grocery store.

Or helping you get off a shoal. 

Some on boats, some on shore. Some flat broke, some filthy rich.

But a common bond - a love of the water and a love of travel. 

 

    Addie the Wonder Cat - my best buddy.                              My son Alex and girlfriend Rachel

 

                               My daughter Sami and grandaughter Chloe 2008

                                                  Hey Dude. Wazzup? 

                                                  Cool Chloe in 2011

 

 

Todd and Jennifer Duncan in Fernandina Beach, FL             Mary, an accomplished artist in Murrels Inlet, SC

 

        Barry Kelly from London                                     Cormorant in Florida                            Larry the SeaTow man, Pimlico Sound

 

 

         Suzanne, Paul, Boyd and Cat in Savannah, Georgia                             The ladies of Murrels Inlet, SC

 

 

                Talia at Abes Tavern in Savannah, Georgia                                       Ace in Savannah, Georgia

 

 

     Atlantic Sturgeon - jumped into my dinghy overnight             Friendly dolphin on the PeeDee River swam alongside for 10 minutes

 

In memory of my two dogs, Tillie and Allie, who both caught incurable distemper last year and had to be put to sleep.

They were good shipmates to the very end.    Here's to you, guys........

 

Pisces at Fernandina Beach Marina, Florida.  Photo taken by my friend and world traveller Benjamin Stagg up his 105ft mast!

Dodging the big ships on the Savannah River. That's my pointy end  in the bottom left corner.

Passenger liner American Star off Jekyll Island, Georgia

And here she is a year later crashing into a condo development in Crisfield, MD, during a strong Chesapeake thunderstorm.

You can just see a window on the third floor of the condo out of which a lady suddenly saw an ocean liner heading towards her! 

Grid lock traffic in Charleston Bay.

 

The 90ft steel ketch "Steel Away" on the St Marys River, Georgia.  Took the owner 13 years to build her. 

That buoy by the way marks the border between Florida and Georgia.

 

Seven of us sailors seeking safety in Great Bridge Lock from Hurricane Irene - which passed right over us!

The owner of the small blue hull sailboat was found dead on the cabin floor - and had been so for 10 days or more.

I suppose he died happy - his sister up in Vermont had a more difficult time and finally donated the boat to a local charity.

 

Arrrrrgh - Hide your daughters!  A pirate on the loose in Beaufort, North Carolina

 

Rob - a flat broke Johnny Dep look alike in Stuart, FL.

But - as he told me - he has a sunrise in the morning and a sunset at night which is more than many have. 

His boat is also a Roberts Spray - getting rustier by the day......

 

St Leonards Creek, Maryland - just beautiful.

 

Haunted House with pool, near Cambridge, MD.  Say the ghosts at night "Come in the deep end Luv - it's real warm".

 

St Michaels,MD, - beautiful little town on Chesapeake Eastern Shore..

 

Baltimore, MD, - nice downtown but probably the dirtiest harbour I have ever seen.

My next boat if I win the lottery.  A Carnival cruise ship visiting Norfolk, Virginia.

From Chesapeake Bay to Key West, the Intra Coastal Waterway stretches some 1500 miles along the US East Coast, from New York City to Key West. Add in the Hudson River, the Erie Canal and other waterways and you can get right up to Canada or down the Mississippi to New Orleans and the Gulf of Mexico. And of course to the Caribe which many cruisers do in the winter.

It is a world totally different to the cities and towns of urban America.  Of miles and miles of beautiful rivers and bays much as they were in the time of Englishman Captain John Smith, and his crew of 11 men, who over two and half years in a 29ft open boat mapped Chesapeake, got stung by a sting ray and was saved from decapitation by Pocahontas.  Of ancient battle grounds such as Savannah and Charleston and Yorktown and Richmond and Washington DC. Of small towns often in dire straights during these poor economic times - but populated by quiet friendly people proud of their heritage, catching crabs from dawn til dusk, cleaning swimming pools, painting pictures or gossiping at the local greasy spoon.  Of dolphins and pelicans and alligators and Canadian geese and butterflies and herons and catfish and sea hawks and snakes and wild horses.  Of tugs and barges and mega yachts and cruise ships and ferries and "snowbirds" like me who cruise north in summer and south in winter. Following the sunshine and creeks and sounds as did the early settlers long ago.

As I said before.  Like a never ending holiday on the Norfolk Broads. Though writ large.

To one and to all - keep your powder dry and Happy Sailing!  :-)

Click here >>>>>>>>>>>  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1KxthvX1Ms

Captain Arnold Parkinson

MV 'Pisces', my home for the past 4 years and counting..........

PS  Perchance To Dream

Pisces Future (As told to my British Club Members, November 2011)





I've already built two huts on my foredeck - one for me and one for Meg (Ryan). I snitched them one dark night from a local Tiki Bar. They will have half naked Zulu warriors wafting us in incense with peacock feathers and belly dancing at 4pm daily. A 22 speaker 68 decibel sound system will play heavy metal making any conversation about trips to WalMart almost impossible.

Nearby spigots will offer the choice of ice cold Newcastle Brown, cola or tonic with gin, rum or vodka - sometimes all mixed together. Free massage, pizzas, movies with full frontal nudity, limbo dance training and a plastic surgeon will be on 24 hour call.
In confidence I can tell you that Barack Obama has agreed to be Head Waiter - and Mrs Obama taking the role of Aphrodite, Goddess Of Night, in our pagan induction ceremonies. We are trying to find a celebrity appearance for ex President Berlesconi of Italy (in charge of the capochino machine possibly). In the event of inclement weather, guests will have signed a pre-nuptial agreement giving the first right of Coastguard rescue to the Captain and any person he chooses, for a small fee of course determined by cash only auction. We accept jewelry and gold bullion.

The jacuzzi will be open to any bevy of starlets who should happen to drop by. There will be a convenient public platform with an adjacent incinerator into which they can drop their burning bras. I'd invite Hugh Hefner except he's probably too old to climb the steps from the small boat dock. The water slide is being carefully designed so that any woman over a certain weight would just hurtle over the lip of the pool into the shark infested sea - no need for an old fashioned plank.

Mildred: Hold it!  Is this not yet another example of your male chauvanistic prejudice against full figured ladies of maturer age?

Myself: No - it's simply a technical problem beyond the comprehension of the fairer sex. One of the design priorities of a boat of this nature is the question of weight. We are already pushing the envelope with the estimated tonnage of 2400 magnums of champagne, 13,000 pre-frozen 2 lb lobsters and hot and cold water tanks for the high pressure 16 nozzle group shower. Add to that my Emperor size bed made of solid 24 karat gold, and white vintage Rolls Royce Silver Cloud Convertible once owned by General Tito, and you can see we must be ruthless on this issue. Crew quarters are already pared to the bone with light weight hammocks, no chandeliers, and plastic beer crates for rudimentary tables. I've already done away with the dodgem car track and may even have to cancel the elephant for ceremonial occasions when visiting Sri Lanka.

Mildred: Have you any concept as to what all this will cost?

Myself: Don't bore me with details - that's your job. Try Miscellaneous Contingency Expenses or whatever other imaginative accounting methods are available today.

Mildred: It's not the Costs that are as important as the Revenue. From where will come the money for all this foolishness?

Myself: Well I'm confident that just about every red blooded male I know will be prepared to sell their house and other assets such as their motor driven lawnmower in order to spend a few days being massaged in coconut cream by the Tahitian hostesses. They may even rob a bank or sell their IPods. One friend, who shall remain nameless because he's married to a rich woman with four children, has already committed to the Maiden Voyage - so named for obvious reasons. I cannot divulge the amount of the deposit though it is in the eight figures.

Mildred: I haven't seen that amount in the Sales Ledger?

Myself: You never will. I paid the cash received straight for a black market Hawker Harrier jet expected to arrive tomorrow. I do hope the pilot doesn't mistake the trampoline for the landing pad. Anyway our principal sponsor, the gargantuan Lady Cabstanleigh, Marchioness of Tewksbury, will not of course be encouraged to use the water slide when she realises with horror that the bottoms of naked commoners will have preceded hers down the chute. She will be content at the baccarat table named in her honour. Oh - one more thing before I forget.

Mildred: And what is that pray tell?

Myself: Check if we can rent the Band of the Fourteenth Hussars for pre-dinner cocktails. There may be Royalty involved - if only Prince William would return my calls. But he's probably on one of those Greek shipping tycoons yachts at Monte Carlo which I regard as traitorous behaviour. One never knows what national secrets might be divulged after two bottles of ouzo. Make a note - call Melina Mercouris grandaughter for some cheap ouzo.

The only problem still unsolved - will I be able to squeeze her up the Manchester Ship Canal?

Pisces I mean not Meg Ryan.

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parky1936@gmail.com